APARTMENTS FOR RENT NEAR THIS AREA

One not to be missed is Bramante's iconic Tempietto, or “Little Temple”, recognized by art historians the world over as a prototype of the perfect Renaissance building. Located within the courtyard of the Church of San Pietro in Montorio next to the Spanish Academy, it allegedly rises above the location of Saint Peter's crucifixion.

Mussolini's tribute to the martial exploits of the Risorgimento heroes (1848-1870) is an imposing white marble monument in the characteristic “fascist” style, rising on a wide expanse of lawn on the left of the Via Garibaldi. Its engraving, “Roma o morte” (“Rome or death”), quotes what is probably Garibaldi's most famous war-cry, uttered on this very hill in August, 1862.

In the summer, this part of the hill's flank is the site of one of Rome's finest seasonal open-air theatres and annexed cafés, “Il Fontanone”, or “Big Fountain”. Actually an affectionate local name for the Fontana dell'Acqua Paolina (Fontana of Pauline water) it was built to resemble a triumphal arch under Pope Paul V in the late 16th century. This imposing monument makes use of columns from the original temple of Minerva. A taste of what the top of the Janiculum Hill has in store in terms of breathtaking views can already be admired from here. One is strongly advised to use the camera sparingly, as another good length of film will be much needed for what is yet to come!

The entrance to the Gianicolo's gardens is just to the right of “Il Fontanone”. It is not difficult to see why visitors and Romans are united in their pleasure at lingering on the terraced edge of Piazza Garibaldi. Difficult as it is to take in such an awesome spectacle at first, a closer look will reveal many of Rome's major monuments in one eyeful. Please now look the panoramic photo on top of this page. The monuments, palaces and domes projected against a backdrop of (on a clear day) fading Alban Hills include, from left to right: the dome of the church of St. Agnese by Borromini, the imposing Palazzo Farnese, the dome of San Carlo al Corso, the facade of the Palazzo Medici and behind it the Borghese Gardens, the shell-like dome of the Church of St. Ivo alla Sapienza by Borromini, the high dome of Sant'Andrea della Valle (behind it the disk-like dome of the Pantheon), the dome of the Church Holy Trinity of the Pilgrims, the imposing spherical dome of the Church of San Carlo ai Catinari, the long and elegant Palazzo Quirinale, the dome of the Church of the Gesu', Trajan's Column, the Torre Spaccata (broken tower), the Altar of Fatherland or Vittoriale, the Church of Ara Coeli (Altar of the Skies), Capitol Hill (with the Municipality and Palazzo Conservatori), St. Mary Major (background with two domes and a belfry), and the dome of the Synagogue (forefront, quadrangular).

The Gianicolo being “Garibaldi's hill” – it was he who led the fierce battle against the French sent to restore Papal rule in 1849 – an imposing equestrian statue of the bearded freedom fighter looms over the pine-tree lined gardens. One thousand busts depicting other Risorgimento martyrs solemnly adorn the Passeggiata del Gianicolo, or “Janiculum Promenade”, leading the way to another equestrian tribute: Garibaldi's equally heroic, Brazilian-born wife, Anita. In this sculpture by Mario Rutelli, some would irreverently observe she typifies irresponsible parenting as she rides a wind-swept, rearing horse while brandishing a pistol in one hand and cradling a baby in the other.

A marble lighthouse donated by the Italian emigrants of Argentina (1911 AD, design by M. Manfredi), and flashing the three colours of the Italian flag rises next to an alternative Gianicolo viewpoint, a stone's throw from Mrs Garibaldi's monument. Standing here, one can take in most of Trastevere in all its sepia and ochre glory, and beyond. In the days before mobile phones, the wives of the convicts confined within Regina Coeli prison (visible from this part of the hill) would shout messages to their spouses below: some classical Italian films feature scenes of such real-life happenings. Carrying on down the Passeggiata del Gianicolo towards the Bambin Gesù Children's Hospital, one can admire some fine views of St. Peter's and Castel S. Angelo.

For all its dizzying historic significance, like most similarly important Roman sites the Gianicolo is not just a solemn historical landmark. It is also a living, breathing part of the city and probably the best place to take a break from hot, dusty sight-seeing and frantic, traffic-dodging walks in the centre. Here, the air is visibly fresher and less polluted even compared with Trastevere, just a ten minute walk away downhill. Open-air café and bars, gelato stands, a historic Sunday puppet show still attracting crowds of local children, a merry-go-round and pony-rides will still keep whole new generations of families amused and entertained.
Likewise, weary sight-seers, families, joggers, dog owners or anyone just looking to soak up some peace and quiet, will delight in the proximity of South-East Rome's green “lung”, Villa Pamphili. The magnificent park's entrance, Porta San Pancrazio, is under a 5-minute walk from Piazza Garibaldi. With its perimeter measuring over 9 km, it is yet another artistic and architectural reminder of Rome's glorious Baroque past. The Villa was once the private estate of Prince Camillo Pamphili, a nephew of Pope Innocent X. Laid out in the mid-17th century by Alessandro Algardi, its epicentre is the imposing, sky-blue and cream stately home, Casino del Belrespiro, its formal maze hedge garden dotted with citrus trees in terracotta pots. A secluded spot for a picnic under the ancient parasol pine-trees, a jogging path or an artificial lake yielding many a treat for the children is always close at hand here.
The leafy urban quarter at the shoulders of the Gianicolo, aptly named Monteverde Vecchio (or "Old Green Hill"), is universally acknowledged as one of the most desirable to live in the Eternal City. It is perfectly located: central enough to be a 15-minute walk from Campo dè Fiori, yet suburban enough to feel removed from the urban chaos. The traffic is mainly local, with good parking facilities. There is good public transport and many recreational facilities, including a delightful small park with a well-equipped children's playground, Villa Sciarra. The American Fine Arts Academy and the American University are located in Monteverde Vecchio, as well as some of Rome's best state schools.
The quarter’s fine town houses, predominantly from the 19th and 20th centuries, are well-built and spacious, many with gardens. Few will disagree that the quarter is among the most beautiful residential areas in Rome. The neighbourhood's unparalleled green areas, food and craft shops, open-air markets and community spirit – its voice channelled by Monteverde’s own local paper, “Quattro Passi”– render its quality of life enviable. It is lofty yet never haughty, and exclusive yet approachable: in other words, unique.

To visit the other quarters or sights, please go to:

• Rome with a view!
• Campo de' Fiori quarter
• Piazza Navona quarter
• Pantheon quarter
• Trastevere quarter
• The Jewish quarter
• Trevi Fountain-Spanish Steps (Piazza di Spagna)
• Monti-Coliseum quarter
• The Roman Forum
• Vatican quarter
• The Janiculum (this page)
• Quarters comparison
• Sights near Rome
• Ancient Appian Way - Appia Antica
• Tivoli Villa d'Este
• Pompeii and Herculaneum